They dare to be different.
While “normal” classic watches feature the hours, minutes, and perhaps even seconds in the center of the dial, some timepieces step out of line with off-center indications. Residing within the exquisite circle of these individualist timepieces are some true legends that delight the eye with their creative dial layouts.
Here I present you five of my recent favorites.
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Moon Phase
When it was first introduced back in 1994, the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 not only opened a new chapter in the history of the Glashütte-based luxury manufacture, it also set a trend with its unique dial layout featuring an off-center time indication and the paradigmatic large date inspired by the historic Five-Minute Clock of Dresden’s Semper Opera House.
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Moonphase in white gold
It instantly became one of the most sought-after luxury timepieces, and every year watch lovers eagerly await new releases to the line.
One of A. Lange & Söhne’s 2017 debuts is the Lange 1 Moon Phase, a variation first introduced in 2002. Although it offers six indications – an off-center time display with hours and minutes, a subsidiary seconds dial with hacking seconds, the brand’s signature “Up/Down” power reserve indicator, the large date, and a continuously driven moon-phase display with an integrated, beautifully executed day/night indicator – its dial looks harmoniously balanced.
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Moonphase in pink gold
Beneath this picture-perfect example of a successful timeless design ticks a nonetheless top-tier and exquisitely finished caliber offering a three-day power reserve.
For more information, please visit www.alange-soehne.com/en/news-and-more/lange-1-moon-phase.
Quick Facts A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Moon Phase
Case: 38.5 x 10.2 mm, pink gold
Movement: manual winding manufacture Caliber L121.3, 3 Hz / 21,600 vph frequency, power reserve of 72 hours
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds: large date, moon phase, power reserve indicator
Price: €39,500
Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Moon Ivory Enamel
With its unique “figure 8” style originating with the eponymous founder of the brand, Jaquet Droz’s Grande Seconde Moon Ivory Enamel has certainly raised the bar for off-centered dial designs.
Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Moon Ivory Enamel in red gold
As its name suggests, the subsidiary seconds take center stage on the expansive dial showcasing a passion for simple precision and channeling yesterday’s spirit into today.
This unique configuration acts as the perfect setting for a moon phase, unsurprisingly executed in the brand’s timelessly elegant manner by demonstrating genuine horological expertise and artisanship.
A close look at the details in the engraved moon of the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Moon Ivory Enamel
While the date and seconds are displayed around the outer edges of the lower subdial, the stunning photorealistic moon cycles through its phases in a large aperture in the upper dial. This moon does not only look gorgeous, it is also particularly accurate as the mechanism only needs to be adjusted by one full day every 122 years.
Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Moon Ivory Enamel in stainless steel
In addition to the pictured version with a white grand feu enamel dial, the Grande Seconde Moon is also available in stainless steel with an opaline or onyx dial.
For more information, please visit www.jaquet-droz.com/en/watches/grande-seconde/grande-seconde-moon-ivory-enamel.
Quick Facts Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Moon Ivory Enamel
Case: 43 x 13.2 mm, red gold
Movement: automatic manufacture Caliber 2660QL3, 4 Hz / 28,000 vph frequency, power reserve of 68 hours
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds; date, moon phase
Price: €29,300
Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar
Traditional design elements meet mechanical complexity in Glashütte Original’s Pano line. The models found here offer some of the most popular complications such as the proprietary large date, which the brand calls “Panorama Date” and the moon phase indication.
Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar
The superb PanoMaticLunar, one of the manufacture’s bestsellers since its introduction in 2003, displays both of these elements. In order to create a harmonious dial design, the subdials for hours and minutes as well as for the small seconds are shifted to the left side of the dial, while the date and lunar satellite are placed on the right side.
This composition allows for a well-balanced layout of indications, allotting each display the attention it deserves.
Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar
This watch’s exterior beauty reflects the perfection of the mechanical inner workings, which offer exclusive Glashütte hallmarks such as the duplex swan neck fine adjuster, the three-quarter plate decorated with Glashütte ribbing, and a skeletonized rotor with a solid gold weight.
For more information, please visit www.glashuette-original.com/collection/pano/panomaticlunar.
Quick Facts Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar
Case: 40 x 12 mm, red gold
Movement: automatic manufacture Caliber 90-02, 4 Hz / 28,800 vph frequency
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds; large date, moon phase
Price: €20,200
Breguet Tradition Dame
Breguet delights aficionadas this year with the Classique Tradition Dame 7038.
Typical for the Classique Tradition line is the concentration on the essentials that combines with plenty of love for the mechanical details to create a paradigmatic example of stunning dial design.
Breguet Classique Tradition Dame
The dial of the Tradition Dame is openworked to showcase the inner beauty of the perfectly decorated movement, its escapement, bridges, gear train, and spring barrel all clearly visible.
The plate and bridges are made perfect with a delicate sandblasted finish. In order to put the spring barrel into the spotlight, the hour and minute indication with a mother-of-pearl chapter ring surrounding the clous de Paris guilloche pattern is placed off-center at 12 o’clock, complemented by retrograde seconds at 10 o’clock.
Breguet Classique Tradition Dame
This essential part of the movement is beautifully engraved with a rosette motif, a pattern that is repeated on the oscillating weight seen through the transparent case back.
For more information, please visit www.breguet.com/en/timepieces/new-models-tradition/7038.
Quick Facts Breguet Tradition Dame
Case: 38.5 x 10.2 mm, pink gold, 68 brilliant-cut diamonds
Movement: automatic manufacture Caliber 505 SR, 3 Hz / 21,600 vph frequency, power reserve of 50 hours
Functions: hours, minutes, small retrograde seconds
Price: €36,800
Harry Winston Midnight Date Moon Phase Automatic 42mm
Harry Winston has also long been active in the field of refined dial design with off-center indications.
Harry Winston Midnight-Date Moonphase in pink gold with diamonds
Three overlapping subdials stage the time indication, the date, and the beautiful lunar circle portrayed in front of a midnight blue background in the new version of the Midnight Date Moon Phase introduced at Baselworld 2017.
Harry Winston Midnight-Date Moonphase in white gold with diamonds
Characterized by a minimalist design, the Midnight collection includes a host of deeply elegant timepieces for ladies. A tribute to the diamond house’s flagship store in New York City, the case features three arches adorned with brilliant-cut diamonds along with the entire bezel hinting at the superb jewelry craftsmanship for which Harry Winston is known.
For more information, please visit www.harrywinston.com/en/midnight-date-moon-phase-automatic-42mm.
Quick Facts Harry Winston Midnight Date Moon Phase Automatic 42mm
Case: 42 mm x 10.2 mm, pink or white gold, 63 brilliant-cut diamonds
Movement: automatic Caliber 505 SR, 4 Hz / 28,800 vph frequency, power reserve of 68 hours
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds; date, moon phase
Price: $30,300
